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How To Measure the Gauge for Computer Flat Knitting?
The computer knitting machine features an efficient knitting machine that has a built-in computer-control unit. Consequently, highly efficient production and maintenance become more efficient, and operations are simplified concerning gauge. This article will discuss how to measure the gauge for computer flat knitting in detail.
Computer Flat Knitting
Computer Flat Knitting is an ultra-modern knitting machine with advanced control panel features and a simple monochromatic LCD monitor. The monitor is improved with a graphic interface for automated operation. The visual display offers enhanced ergonomics, while menu-interactive function buttons help easy input and edit as well.
Key Features
By networking multiple knitting machines with the same workstation, knitting gauge data are shared with each other. Virtual production management systems (VPMS) gather essential information about productivity for every individual machine. It can be customized according to factory configuration for up to 240 knitting machines within a network.
Computer Flat Knitting Consistency Factors such as:
- High Knitting speed.
- Uniform Yarn tension.
- Standardized Cone size.
- Humidity contributes to variations in a loop formation.
- And automatically change gauge conversion.
It is high to learn about Machine gauges. So, what do you mean by gauge?
Gauge
Gauge is the measurement of the no. of stitches in 1 inch of fabric. Simply stitches per inch.
It is just a measure of how the size of stitches is. Gauge 2 two parts: stitches and rows. This means the gauge measures both widths of stitches and the height of stitches.
It could be varied depending on the yarn, needle size, individual knitter, and stitch pattern. Usually, the wider the yarn, the wider the needle might use with it. The bigger stitches it will make, so will need fewer of them. The finer the yarn, the finer the needle you should use, the smaller the stitches, so you need more of them.
Now, you might have the question, what is a machine gauge?
Machine gauge:
The machine gauge is the measurement of expressing the number of needles per unit (usually 1 inch) of a knitting machine’s needle bed width or circumference.
In a Machine gauge, all primary elements directly involved in the knitting action in the same machine will be set to the same Gauge. Specially Gauge is measured on one needle bed, so a machine of the same Gauge. But with, two-needle beds need to have twice as many needles as a machine with one bed.
The Gauge is measured at the point of needle location at the point of loop formation. The pitch (distance) between one needle and another. It is proportional to the needle gauge. The space available determines the maximum coarseness of the yarn. Significantly it depends on the yarn count. The knitted gap between the side of the needle and the trick wall as the needle descends to draw a new loop.
Machine gauge is always calculated by dividing the total number of needles by the length of the needle bed.
Gauge for computer flat knitting
Mainly Flat Knitting depends on the yarn counts and gauges. It’s Denoted by gg or E for the English system. The Gauge stands for the number of needles per inch. The lower the count is the course the knit, the higher the count, the more delicate the fabric.
The Gauge is the number of needles on a certain length of the bed. The English Gauge is the population of needles included in an English inch. It stands for how many are covered in 2.54 needle-bed centimeters.
From a theoretical point of view, the English inch is measured from the centreline of a needle. But practically, it is the distance corresponding to an inch.
Which is measured from one side of the needle to the same side of another needle within an inch.
For example: if knitting starts from the right side of the first needle, then have to reach the right side of the last needle. In a flat knitting machine, the Gauge always refers only to one of the two needle-beds.
Gauges are used in computer flat knitting in 3GG, 5GG, 7GG, 10GG, 12GG, 14GG, 16GG and 18GG. Often it is written E3, E5 and so on. Most common are the gauges used in computerized flat knitting is 5, 7, and 10, 14.
How to Measurement of Gauge for computer flat knitting
The needle gauge of a computerized flatbed knitting machine is a measure expressing the no. of needles per unit of the needle bed width.
It is defined in various units (systems) in multiple regions. Measurement of Gauge also depends on the types of knitting machines. Most popularly, it is defined as the number of needles per inch in the English system.
Gauge is fixed in the machine that is 2-14 gauge or others, but we are converting into CM from Gauge or number of needles per inch.
Formula to Measure the Gauge for computer flat knitting
N= (Number of Needles/ One English Inch.)
Gauge, N = How many needles used in 1 English inch
In flatbed knitting, the highest Gauge is 60, and the lowest Gauge is 2 to 2.5.
N=Number of Needle/One English Inch
Often machine gauge is formulated with yarn count.
Ne= (G2/18)
Where, Ne= Yarn count and G = gauge
From the formula, Finer gauges needs stronger yarn count.
For fine gauges a heavier and stronger count may be necessary.
If the gauge ranges from 5 to 20 NPI (needle per inch) has approximately suitable count will be obtained using the formula
Ne= G2/ 8.4
where Ne =cotton count or English system and G = npi.
How to Distinguish 3GG, 5GG, 7GG,9GG,12GG,14GG, and 16GG from Knitwear
Gauge refers to the no. of rows or stitches per inch and is a measure of how tightly the fabric is knitted. The higher the gauge number the tighter and thin knit. The lower gauge number indicates comparatively loose and coarseness knit.
Anyone can simply measure gauge numbers from a standard knitwear sample by using measuring tape or scale as the picture is as followings.
Example of 7 Gauge:
Example of 12 Gauge
3 gauge has 3 stitches or rows of yarn per inch of the knitted fabric. so, the fabric has a more mesh-like look and is heavy. 16 gauge has 16 stitches or rows of yarn per inch, so the fabric is relatively coarsening.
In winter 3 GG is used to knit fabric in the winter season and 16GG is used in the summer season which is the thinnest gauge number. It is essential to know how to measure the gauge for computer flat knitting.
A lower gauge number will provide a lighter fabric. If you are looking for lightweight apparel in summer, then a higher gauge is best. If your priority is warmth or durability, then a lower gauge will be preferable.
Modern System to measure gauge for computer flat knitting
Machine gauge is appropriate for the number of needle grooves of tricks per unit length, usually 1 inch. It could also be defined as the capacity of carrying comprehensive no—the number of needles per inch. But now, it is somewhat identical to the backdated concept.
For example, A 16-gauge flat knitting machine is running with 1 × 1 rib fabric machine setting. That means the machine has 16 needles in 1 inch and 16 needle grooves.
When the command of CPU automatically converts this machine. Then it would be 2 × 1 rib fabric. It will be needed to drop or withdraw 1 needle after every 2 needles from both needle beds.
In this case, the number of needles is 8 in 1 inch length, where needle grooves remain 16. But the machine is 16 gauges for all times and all structures.
Production Calculation:
If all needle grooves are filled by needle,
a) Total Number of Needle = π× Machine Diameter × Machine Gauge
b) Total Number of Stitches Produced per Hour = No. of Needle × RPM × 60 × No. of Feeder × Efficiency
c) Length of Yarn Converted into Stitches Per Hour = Total No. of Stitch Produced Per Hour × Stitch Length
= Length of Yarn Converted into stiches per hour × Stitch Length
= Total No of Stitch Produced per Hour × Stitch length Weight of yarn converted into fabric in lbs.
= (Length of Yarn Converted into Stiches per hour in Yards) ÷ (840 × Yarn Count in Ne)
So, the formula of production will be for computerized knitting machine,
Production Per Hour in lbs
= [π× Machine width × Gauge × RPM × No. of Feeder × Stitch Length (inch) × Efficiency] ÷ [840 × Yarn Count (Ne) × 36]
These are the basic formula; they could be derived in according to the different ingredients of knitting.
Gauge Conversion for Computer Flat Knitting Machine
Today, most computerized knitting machines can allow a variety of gauges to be knit on a single machine. This is possible for automated gauge conversion. It will enable the freedom to handle changing seasons and shifting trends without investing in a machine for every gauge or resorting to the complex, time-consuming task of gauge conversion.
Operator Role
In computerized flatbed knitting, there are few responsibilities to do compared to the semi-automatic knitting machine. But the operator’s role in computerized is very crucial for the wh0le production. Operators have to feed data (e.g., gauge conversion, yarn count, pattern or design, etc.)
Operators use samples, swatches, and photographs to illustrate the look and technology desired in combination with drawing or sketches produced by the designer or graphic computer software.
The knitting operator supplies information about the gauge, the yarn, the knitting technology, the colors for sampling and additional colorways, and the finished apparel measurements, including the size specifications.
Final Say:
Measurements of Machine gauges are an essential factor for any particular structure and calculation of production. An appropriate gauge measure can easily be used to estimate production mathematically.
The values that could be used in the knit production calculation influence the production of knit fabric. Where all values are constant without the total number of active needles present in the machine, if the fabric design needs to be changed, the number of needles must be dropped, and production fabric decreases according to the gauge.
A computerized flat knitting machine could make all calculations and adjustments automatically. Analog knitting machines cannot keep up with the minute adjustments required against today’s demands of high-speed knitting, resulting in inconsistent production quality.
References:
- Understanding Textile for Merchandiser by Dr. Belal
- KNITTING TECHNOLOGY BY David J Spencer (3rd edition)
- Engineering Textiles: Integrating the Design and Manufacture of Textile Products by Yehia E. Elmogahzy
- https://www.scirp.org/journal/paperinformation.aspx?paperid=66366
- https://apparelresources.com/technology-news/manufacturing-tech/flat-knitting-stepping-development/
- https://www.jetandbo.com/blogs/all-about-cashmere/cashmere-ply-and-gauge-explained
